Here are several effective methods for clamping broken scrolls. The key is to first align the pieces by hand—once properly positioned, you can determine the best way to apply pressure in the necessary directions. If the break doesn’t align perfectly, the repair may need to be done in stages over several days. In one case, I had to glue a scroll in three separate sections to ensure a precise fit. I typically use a combination of clamps, rubber bands, or string, depending on the scroll's shape and damage. Since every scroll is unique, finding the right clamping method is essential for a successful repair.
Repairing a Broken Cello ScrollThis cello scroll had multiple cracks, including a small shard that had broken off. Due to the complexity of the damage, I repaired each section individually to ensure proper alignment and reinforcement. Below is the step-by-step process: - Glue the Broken Shard: A small piece had broken off the scroll, so I glued it back in place using tape as a clamp.
- Use the Peg as a Guide: To help align the broken peg hole, I inserted a peg to serve as a reference during the repair.
- Glue and Clamp Cracks Individually: The three cracks didn’t align perfectly, so I glued and clamped each one separately to achieve the best fit which took three days.
- Create an Inner Sleeve: I made an inner sleeve to reinforce the damaged section of the scroll, adding extra structural support.
- Make a Spiral Bushing: A spiral bushing was created and installed for the D peg to stabilize the peg hole.
- Minimal Touch-Up: Since this was an inexpensive scroll, I kept the touch-up work minimal, spending just a few minutes blending the repair.
- Fit the Peg into the Bushing: Finally, I adjusted the peg to fit securely into the newly installed spiral bushing.
Repairing a Complex Scroll Break Here’s how I repaired a particularly bad scroll break. When there are multiple breaks like this, it’s usually most effective to clamp one crack at a time for maximum precision and stability. Below is the full step-by-step process: - Clamp the First Crack: The first crack was tricky to align perfectly. To stabilize it, I clamped some temporary flat pieces to the inside of the scroll box.
- Sandwich the Scroll: I placed flat pieces on the outside of the scroll to sandwich it securely between the inner and outer supports.
- Clamp in Both Directions: The scroll was clamped in both directions to ensure the crack closed tightly and remained aligned during the repair.
- Remove Inner Supports: After the first crack was secured, I removed the temporary inner clamp supports to prepare for the next stage.
- Glue and Clamp the Other Side: I glued and clamped the second major crack on the opposite side of the scroll, using similar stabilization techniques.
- Create Inner Sleeve Supports: I made custom pieces for the inner sleeve method, which adds structural reinforcement inside the peg box.
- Glue and Clamp Inner Sleeves: These inner sleeve pieces were glued and clamped inside the peg box to stabilize the entire structure.
- Add a Second Layer of Sleeves: To further reinforce the scroll, I installed a second layer of inner sleeves, ensuring the peg box could withstand future stress.
- Create Spiral Bushings: For the G and E peg holes, I made double-layer spiral bushings. These prevent the peg holes from expanding, which could reopen the cracks.
- Trim the Spiral Bushings: Once the bushings were installed, I trimmed the excess material for a clean and precise fit.
- Final Touches: After all repairs were complete, I made the final adjustments and finished the surface. The scroll was now stable, functional, and looking good.
Repairing a Broken Inexpensive Scroll with PinningWhen working with an inexpensive scroll that’s broken, you’re often faced with a choice: fix it or toss it. In this case, I decided it was worth repairing. Due to the position of the break, I determined that my usual inner mold method wouldn’t add significant strength, so I opted for a simpler pinning technique instead. Here's how I completed the repair: - Assess the Damage: Examine the location and severity of the break. In this case, the break was clean but in a position where the inner mold method wouldn’t provide much extra strength.
- Decide on Pinning: Since the break didn’t require heavy reinforcement, I chose to skip the inner mold process and use pins to secure the scroll.
- Align the Broken Sections: Carefully align the broken pieces of the scroll to ensure a tight, seamless fit before inserting any pins.
- Drill for Pinning: Drill small pilot holes across the break line, ensuring they are deep enough to hold the pins securely without compromising the scroll's structure.
- Insert Pins: Apply glue to the holes and insert the pins, bridging the break and providing the necessary reinforcement.
- Clamp and Dry: Clamp the scroll tightly to maintain alignment while the glue dries, ensuring the pins bond securely within the wood.
- Varnish Touch-Up: Apply a light varnish touch-up to match the existing finish and conceal any visible signs of the repair.
While this wasn’t a high-end scroll, the simple pinning method was an efficient way to restore its ;function and give it a second life without extensive work.
Violin Scroll Repair: Spiral Bushings and Inner Sleeve MethodThis violin scroll had a challenging break running through two peg holes, requiring both spiral bushings and an inner sleeve for a strong and lasting repair. Here’s the complete step-by-step process I used to restore it: - Practice Dry Clamping: Before applying any glue, dry clamp the scroll to practice achieving perfect alignment. This helps ensure the scroll will sit correctly during the actual gluing process.
- Glue the Crack: Once the dry clamp looks perfect, proceed to glue the crack. To maintain proper alignment under clamping pressure, use the existing pegs. Wrap each peg in plastic wrap to prevent them from being glued to the scroll during the process.
- Prepare for the Interior Sleeve: For this repair, I decided to install an interior sleeve. The first step is to line the inside of the peg box with similar-sized material. After lining it, place plastic wrap inside and cast the piece. Allow it to dry for a full day.
- Fit the Spiral Bushings: While the interior sleeve is drying, fit spiral bushings into the peg holes. These reinforce the peg holes and help prevent future cracks.
- Trim the Spiral Bushings: The following day, trim off the excess bushing material. Apply masking or painter's tape to the outside of the peg box to protect the scroll while using a gouge to trim the bushing down to the tape's thickness. After removing the tape, carefully thin the remaining spiral bushing to the desired size.
- Cut the Cast Piece: Once the cast piece has fully dried, cut it in half using a bandsaw. This will create the inner sleeve components for the peg box.
- Make a Fiber Template: Create a template for the fiber that will line the interior of the peg box. This fiber will serve as a durable reinforcement layer.
- Bend the Fiber: Using wedges and clamps, bend the fiber into the proper shape. Allow it to dry for a full day to hold the new shape.
- Prepare for Gluing: After drying, trim the fiber as needed. It’s now ready to be glued into the peg box.
- Glue the Fiber Sleeve: Use wedges and clamps to glue the formed fiber piece securely into the peg box. Ensure it's fully seated for maximum support.
- Cut the Peg Hole: Once the glue has set, cut out the peg hole. In most cases, you would adjust the original peg to fit the new hole size. However, in this case, since the pegs were mechanical, I adjusted the hole to fit the existing peg.
- Varnish Touch-Up: Finally, apply a light varnish touch-up to any areas where the varnish chipped off during the break. This helps blend the repair with the original finish and restores the scroll’s appearance.
This scroll had been previously repaired by another shop, where they glued it and added several wooden pins around the peg holes. When the customer brought it to me, the cracks had reopened, though the scroll was not completely separated. The prior repair made the fix more challenging, but I was able to work glue into the cracks while keeping the existing wooden pins intact. To further reinforce the structure, I installed a spiral bushing for the A peg. Unfortunately, I don’t have the remaining photos of the process, but the repair was successful, and the scroll is now securely glued and structurally strong.
Repairing a Badly Broken Violin ScrollThis violin scroll had multiple cracks that needed to be repaired individually for proper alignment and strength. Below is the step-by-step process I used to restore it: - Glue the First Two Cracks: I started by gluing and securing two of the cracks to ensure a solid foundation.
- Glue the Third Crack Separately: The third crack did not align properly, so it needed to be glued and clamped separately.
- Determine Pressure Application: Since I could manually pull the crack together, I needed to find a way to apply consistent pressure in the same direction.
- Use a Rubber Band and Cello Bridge: I used a rubber band combined with a cello bridge as a fulcrum to create controlled pressure, which worked effectively.
- Align and Clamp: At the same time, I sandwiched the scroll to ensure the crack aligned properly in both directions.
- Install Spiral Bushings: Once the cracks were secure, I fitted two spiral bushings to reinforce the peg holes.
- Varnish Touch-Up: I applied a light varnish touch-up to blend the repair with the original finish.
- Fit the Pegs: Finally, I adjusted the pegs to fit properly within the newly installed spiral bushings.
Note: This repair was completed before I developed the Scollard Inner Sleeve Method. If I were to repair this scroll today, I would use that technique to provide additional structural reinforcement.
Another broken scroll.
Saving a cheap violin scroll.
Here is another broken scroll. The trick to getting a scroll break to kine up is by using the correct clampling angle. Before shot from text goes here. | | | | | | | | |
Although this is a really cheap student violin, they wanted it repaired and even so I still try to do my best work. This is an example of using braces and rubber bands to glue it together.
This is a shot of a scroll that was broken once before and repaired by another shop. Then it broke again in a slightly different spot and was basically totally sheered off. These are the bofore photos, but I can't seem to locate the after photo, but it's nearly invisiable.
Here is another scroll that was broken, this type of break is more typical. If it goes through one of two peg holes they need to be bushed with a spiral bushing. The bushing keeps the peg from expanding the peg hole and opening the crack.
A cello scroll that was broken through the "D" peg hole.
Another broken violin scroll.
This is a crack in the scroll that did not go all the way through, but it needed a lot of clamping pressure to get it completely closed.
Another scroll broken through the A and D peg.
A violin scroll that's broken just where the neck starts, it's a very short break so I needed to put in two stainless steel pins under the nut.
Here is a violin that has a bad crack running through most of the scroll. It had custom made brass plates that were screwed onto the sides. The crack was completely open and only the plates were holding it together.
Here is another scroll where it was only broken through one side of the "A" peg hole. I also neded to bush the peg holes because the pegs were going every which way. |
You could send me a couple of photos and I'll take a look and see if it's worth making the repairs.
I have fixed a lot of broken scrolls and there are several ways to fix them depending on how they are broken. If you can send me a couple of photos I should be able to tell how bad the break is and what's required to fix the scroll.
Thanks,
Craig
Most likely it can be fixed. If it's a somewhat normal break and an average cello, my guess would be around $80 for the break and about $35 to bush the D peg hold, but I would really need to see it to give you a price and determine how it would be repaired. Currently I'm swamped with work so it would take about 3 weeks.
Craig
I would need to see how the scroll was broken, but most likely it can be repaired.
Craig
I have a violin that had a hairline crack running to the peg holes. The peg slips and opens up the crack line as I try to tighten the string but the peg won't stay put under the pull of the string.
Can simple gluing together suffice or you will need bushings.
I don't see a fee listed for bushings. What is the repair cost .
Thanks
Chris
If the crack runs through the peg hole then it needs to be bushed. Since the peg is tapered when it's pushed into the peg hole, it will always be creating a force that's trying to expand the peg hole. If you use a spiral bushing that makes two revolutions inside the peg hole, the bushing will withstand the force and the crack will not open up again.
I would really need to see the instrument to give you a price.
Thanks,
Craig